GRUNGE 

"If grunge music was an alternative to stadium rock, the kind of clothes I designed were my alternative to power dressing."

Grunge was popular in the 80's/90s in both counter-culture music and fashion, with a dishelved and distressed appearance.

• History of the grunge era from Affliction
• Particulars of grunge fashion, from Cyberdrobe 
• Article about Kurt Cobain's fashion from KCRW 
• Inspiration: Biba's Boutique, article from V&A Musuem
• Compare to Sui's Spring '93 Line 

PUNK 

"When I made my first punk collection in Spring 1994, I wanted to make it positive. The concept of nihilism was never me, anyway."

Punk, like earlier subcultures, juxtaposes different pieces to create an unconventional look. The style features dark colors, harsh lines, and heavy accessories.

• History of punk from Museum of Youth Culture
• Two well-known punk establishments were Max's Kansas City and CBGB 
• Compare to Sui's Spring '94 Line 
• Or her Spring '13 Line, also inspired by the work of Madelaine Castaing
• Article from the New York Times

ANDROGYNY

"The greatest designers have always understood that the shadowland between genders is where some of the most haunting stories lie." 

Androgyny blurs the line between traditionally male and female fashion, challenging the gender binary. 

• History of androgyny in fashion from Bustle
• Article on David Bowie's style from The Guardian 
• Inspiration: Rue Aubriot by Helmut Newton, 1975
• Article about the photograph on ArtNet
• Inspiration: Performance, a 1970 film 
• Compare to Sui's Spring '10 Line or Spring '94 Line 

ROCKSTAR/HIPPIE 

"Someone once said that being backstage at my shows was like being backstage at a gig. I guess i'm a rock chick at heart."

The hippie movement emerged out of activism in the '60's. The style often included transformed vintage pieces and appropriated ethnic clothing, resulting in a psychadelic, free-flowing look.

• History of Hippie Fashion from Vintage Dance 
• Compare to Sui's Spring '14 Line 

Rockstar fashion emerged from the attire of 1960's musicians and the boutiques they frequented.

• Sui's Spring '15 Line was titled Kozmik Rock Star
• Inspired by a boutique, Granny Takes a Trip, article on Uncut

MOD 

"There was just something so graphic and positive and revolutionary about the mod spirit."

The Mod or "Modern" movement was started by young people in post-war 1960's Britain who wanted to "distance themselvers from their parents."

• History of mod culture from John Smedley
• Detailed History of Mod from the GBACG
• Article about the Mudd Club from CR Fashion 
• Compare to Sui's Fall '91 Line, shown in a video under "On the Runway"

SURFER 

"The darker truths behind all that sun and surf and blonde hair and white teeth appealed to my twisted side."

Surfer style was inspired by the baggy, casual clothes worn by surfers. Floral and tropical prints made an appearance in earlier styles.

• History of the style, from Surfd
• Article about beach party movies from Vanity Fair 
• Compare to Sui's Spring '04 Line 

NOMAD 

"I'm particularly drawn to nomadic cultures, where the artisanship had to be tightly focused on what could be worn or carried"

The nomad archetype shows Sui's interest in exploring cultural styles and costumes from around the world.

•  Anna Sui's Fall '14 Line, video under "On the Runway"
• Inspired by the style of Anna May Wong, a Chinese American film star
• Other inspirations: 
• Park Avenue Armory's Veterans Room 
• Peruvian punk scene 

VICTORIAN 

"The reaction to the Victorian era certainly inspired an outpouring of emotional and artistic extravagance."

Victorian Era of the 1800's and the following Belle Époque were romantic periods charactorized by excessive wealth and adornment.  

• Online version of La Belle Époque (hard copy available in the Mint Library)
• Inspiration: the Moulin Rouge in France
• Article on Art Nouveau from The Met
• Compare to Sui's Fall '09 Line

AMERICANA 

"Optimism and romance -- they've always colored my Americana"

American culture can be hard to define, and is specific to each person. Common themes can stem from the vast landscape and popular culture.

• The American Folk Art Museum's "Mystery and Benevolance" Exhibition  
• Inspiration: Andy Warhol
• Article about Warhol's portraits from ArtLand 
• Article featuring Warhol's films by Artnet 
• Compare to Sui's Spring '17 Line or Spring '05 Line

RETRO 

"The live-for-the moment extravagance of these people was inspiring. It was a time when nobody had money but everyone looked like a million bucks."

Retro is a reemergence of past styles and previous decades. 

• Article about the Yves Saint-Laurent Liberation/Quarante collection, Spring '71, from The Cut
• Inspiration: Busby Berkeley Musicals, article from BFI 
• Compare to Sui's Spring '08 Line 

SCHOOLGIRL

"It's about optimism, entusiasm for the future, a refusal to be beaten and bowed by the way things are." 

The schoolgirl aesthetic often features short pleated skirts, cardigans, and uniforms.

• Inspired by the Japanese schoolgirl style
• Article on schoolgirl stereotypes from Voices of Gen-Z 
• Article on the fashion of Riot Grrrl from AnOther 
• Inspiration: wardrobe designed by Yves Saint-Laurent in the film Belle De Jour
• Compare to Sui's Spring '94 Line 

FAIRYTALE 

"I am a storyteller. Which is why I love fairytales... The fantasy-- the dressing up part of fashion-- has never lost its magic for me"

Fairytale is remenicent of old storybook tales and princess styles, drawing inspiration from fanstasy novelists and artists.

• Inspiration: The Mists of Avalon, a novel by Marion Zimmer Bradley
• Article on Pre-Raphaelites from the Tate Museum
• Inspiration: Walter Crane and William Morris
• Compare to Sui's Fall '98 Line or Spring '14 Line